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I have a 2011 Vantage EVX1000 that ran great for 2 years, now its cutting it self back and kind of bucking. im getting code 69 Controller: 1238, Fault: 69 Fault Name: External Supply Out of Range. Action: None, unless a action is programmed in VCL. Fault Cause: 1. External load on the 5V and 12V supplies draws either too much or too little current. 2.
Posting my progress to put a EM57 leaf motor and pdm and 24 amp hr battery w/ bms into a 1980 rear wheel Toyota truck using Resolve controller and BRAT motor coupler
This wiki is intended to be a one stop resource for anyone thinking of converting a car from a ICE car to run on pure electricity. If you are not familiar with a wiki it is just like an encyclopaedia that anyone can add to or edit. This means that all of our collective knowledge is collected in one easy to read place, errors that inevitably occur are monitored and changed by other members and the information stays up to date.
We have developed a tool for testing Tesla battery modules outside the car and with the stock BMB attached. Reads out voltage of all cell groups and temperatures to verify the module is balanced and BMB is working. It does not do balancing yet but we are working on this with a software upgrade. Portable, handy and inexpensive! Label printing ability coming soon as well as other Wifi based features.
in this thread in this sub-forum in the entire site Advanced Search Cancel Create thread New Forums More Login / Join Whats New Forum Listing Marketplace Showcase Gallery Advanced Search Members FAQ Dark Mode Light Mode Menu Log in Sign up Home Forums EV Conversions and Builds Technical Discussion criticar C Hello , want to convert 2008 Ford F150 4x4 gas engine in electric.
MiniBMS is an open source product designed with help of this forum members. Its simple, robust, easy to understand and install in your EV. MiniBMS supports variety of LiFePo4 cells, offers distributed or centralized installation choice, interfaces with virtually any charger and motor controller. It has temperature compensation for LVC alerts and adjustable LVC delay.
Hello, I've wanted to get into building an EV for a long time, but it seems expensive and daunting. I've had the "Build Your Own Electric Vehicle, Second Edition" book for years. Now it seems outdated. (1) The latest consensus seems to be to use a Leaf donor and control it with a VCU. (2) A previous strategy was to buy off-the-shelf components: A 9" DC motor, a controller, etc and buy batteries to assemble into a pack. (3) Another strategy was to find a suitable forklift mo
This 2022 Ford Transit T350 HD has been expertly converted into a fully electric cargo van, offering a unique blend of power, efficiency, and sustainability by Lightning E Motors. Originally designed for heavy-duty applications, this vehicle is now equipped with advanced electric technology, making it an ideal choice for environmentally conscious businesses or fleets.
I have a couple new Ultium 102kWh packs from a Cadillac Lyriq/GM Blazer and I was wondering if anyone has any info on the wireless BMS system that this is supposed to use. Ideally I would like to try to interface with it as the factory intended but I know the chances of that is really slim and I may have to open it up and install a normal BMS.
I'm on my 4th version, I'm VERY happy with it so far. I've moved to only using 2pin connectors for all my CAN Bus work - using Deutsch DTM04-2P housings, 120ohm resistors at each end, 22awg wire, smallest Size 20 pins on each end then regular Size 20s to accommodate the double wires for the middles. For my configuration, I don't need a larger back housing to protect it, just a nice mounting for my Tech Box.
Hello all, I work with some production EVs that use the Orion BMS 2 to manage their packs. I have begin to run into a few of them that will exhibit strange behavior after completing the charge cycle. Basically, it seems as though whenever the system either engages or disengages (I haven't been able to catch one in the act) the cell balancing circuits, it halts all discharge and shuts off the contactors.
in this thread in this sub-forum in the entire site Advanced Search Cancel Create thread New Forums More Login / Join Whats New Forum Listing Marketplace Showcase Gallery Advanced Search Members FAQ Dark Mode Light Mode Menu Log in Sign up Home Forums Welcome To DIY Electric Car Forums New Member Introductions Anricinn Hello everyone! Looks like a great community.
in this thread in this sub-forum in the entire site Advanced Search Cancel Create thread New Garage Forums More Login / Join Whats New Forum Listing Marketplace Garage Showcase Gallery Advanced Search Members FAQ Dark Mode Light Mode Menu Log in Sign up Home Forums EV Conversions and Builds Controllers Mark72Newk Hi, Any peeps out there who know where to obtain a OEM version of TAU Smartview software for programming the SME X1 motor controller?
I'm immersed in the conversion research now, but will be working first on the removal of all things ICE related, and doing the body repair and refinishing (Metal flake Burgudy). But I want to kick off my build thread to tap the collective wisdom of all you experts. I'm a retired elec engineer and pilot, but please don't assume I know what I'm doing here!
Dear DIY EV community, I am working on a conversion to create a BMW 2002e in celebration of the first electric BWM from 1972. My aim is to meet the 50th anniversary of this visionary vehicle in 2022. My story is that I believe in EV's and have a strong connection to the BMW 1602/2002. Last year I visited the Munich BMW museum and saw the 1602e.
Hey all, Just wanted to share a quick story and maybe help someone else avoid a mistake. I was looking at a 2013 Jeep Grand Cherokee last week looked great, low miles, clean title (according to the seller). I asked for the VIN and did a free check using NICB. Boom it was flagged as a salvage title from Florida. Seller said he “didn’t know” and then ghosted me.
Hi As the topic describes, are there any differences between model 3 and model y complete rear subframe assemblies including drive axles, hubs, brakes, subframe etc? Or are these complete rear axle identical? Need to know when searching parts for my build. I was afraid the MY might have wider track width or other mounting holes positions for the subframe etc.
I am building my second EREV and am looking for suggestions for a controller for the DC genset. Previously I used a Datakom controller which worked great, but I'm looking for something smaller and with native support for HVDC (500V). A general purpose controller would work as well if it can be programmed to operate the engine and communicate over CAN.
Stump/Stub shafts for Tesla LDU/SDU conversions. 108 Porsche 930,964,993 Purchased new from amprevolt.com for a conversion project that I am no longer able to work on. Prefer local pickup but will ship for cost.
Hi everyone, I currently own a 1992 Carry that is street legal. I use it for running around town. I feel it would be a good candidate for a EV conversion since it has a curb weight of about 1600lbs, no power steering, solid rear locking axle and tons of space under the bed for the conversion. I am a ticketed heavy duty mechanic by trade. My goals for this is just to make a silly little car that puts a smile on my face and is fun to zip around town.
Aloha DIYers! I've been thinking about EV conversions for a while, and now I've finally jumped in. Yes, I'm in Hawaii, shipping is crazy expensive, and so I'm trying to source from junkyards as much as possible for my first go at this. I have some basic tools and backyard, no lift or mechanic's tool chest. I've already gotten some of the major components, so I figured it was time to start a thread.
I want to take these 2.6kw 16s chrysler pacifica battery modules and turn them into modular packs using I think an ANT 8-20s relay bms and a big contactor. The idea being they will be a fully enclosed package with a big positive and negative, along with some simple control level wires. Everything will be isolated so that they can be put in series. So then I can take them and run two in series, or 4 in series parallel, with the idea being they are swappable like a power tool battery.
in this thread in this sub-forum in the entire site Advanced Search Cancel Create thread New Forums More Login / Join Whats New Forum Listing Marketplace Showcase Gallery Advanced Search Members FAQ Dark Mode Light Mode Menu Log in Sign up Home Forums DIY Electric Car Forums General DIY Electric Car Discussions wike55 W Hi hi Jump to Latest 30 views 0 replies 1 participant last post by wike55 1d ago W wike55 Discussion starter 1 post · Joined 2025 Add to quote Only show this user #1 · 1d ago Hi
Ok, I’ve been sitting on the idea for a while now. After running against some oil pump related issues with my Swift GTi engine I swapped in earlier, I sort of got pushed beyond the threshold and now next thing that is going in shall be electric. I am thinking of using the full drive stack from a Nissan Leaf. The motor is adaptable to either the Samurai transmission or then I’ll have to fabricate a reducer before the transfer case which is divorced.
I have a 2015 Nissan Leaf I've owned since new and now, at about 75% battery capacity and with a recently acting up AC, it's on it's way out as a daily driver. This presents me with a few options, so take a position and convince me.: 1) Sell/trade as is - Lowest $ return, but simple and my wife will still love me 2) Minor repairs and sell - Fix the AC with something like a used compressor that doesn't have me spending 50% of what the car will sell for on AC work. 75 miles of
Hi all, I recently got my hands on an Orion BMS 2. But no CANdapter, at least not yet. I know there have been discussions in at least two threads on difficulties using third-party CAN bus interfaces with the Orion BMS 2 utility software, and it seems SimonRafferty is the only one who's had.
Hi everyone, As an EV motor hobbyist and follower of electric performance tech, I’ve always found inspiration in real-world motorsports — especially seeing how electric motor configurations are pushed to their limits in pro settings. Watching how teams deploy high-torque AC motors or custom DC setups has even helped inform some of my build ideas. If you're into that crossover like I am, you might want to check out RBTV77 — it's a free streaming.
I’m at the Venn diagram center of two active and informed DIY communities, Ford Ranger (FFR!) owners and EV Conversion enthusiasts. In the spirit of this forum, I’m looking for help from the EV Conversion folks to identify the pieces I need to complete the build list for my retirement project. I’m in Portland, Oregon, so very mild climate, will not need to drive the truck when it’s 100F, nor when below freezing.
My partner and I are using a PM150 DX-SP motor controller and need assistance. We believe we have everything wired correctly but we aren't spinning the motor and when we complete the start sequence (push the brake pedal and turn ignition key to start position) we lose our serial connection to the controller, though the OK light stays illuminated.
I've had 25K problem free miles with our 2017 Smart EV, but now the car will not charge. The dealer tells me the charging port is the problem, but that Mercedes/SMART have none of them and do not plan to make more. Do any of you know anything about this issue? Do any of you have a charging port for our car?
Dear Everybody, My name is Gonard, I am from the Netherlands and already some years in love with the Fiat Panda 141, for 2 years I am driving a petrol version from 1999. Last year I saw on a Dutch Fiat Panda forum a person that converted an original fiat panda elettra to a LiFePO4 battery ten years ago. He and his wife already drove 100.000 kilometres with it.
Has anyone ever opened any of these? It is a 0.6kWh 48v with a nominal voltage just above 43v which means it should be 12s. Probably physically divided into two rows of 6s. At 0.6kWh it is not worth much, it is hardly above a e-bike battery. But it is also a nice size to already get 48v from, which is typically only achieved with larger modules. However, it will clearly be able to take and deliver much more amps because of battery size and it has ventilation running through the middle, with.
in this thread in this sub-forum in the entire site Advanced Search Cancel Create thread New Forums More Login / Join Whats New Forum Listing Marketplace Showcase Gallery Advanced Search Members FAQ Dark Mode Light Mode Menu Log in Sign up Home Forums EV Conversions and Builds All EV Conversions and Builds MikeGotASpaceship Hello I’m looking for inwheel hub motors for sale anyone selling any?
We decided to build a 3rd generation battery pack for our Tesla Cobra EV road race car. Our 1st pack was from a 2015 Kia Soul EV. It had very high power output (we were able to pull 375kW), but the capacity (27kwh) was a little short for our 20 minute races. We replaced it with 2/3 of a Chevrolet Bolt pack. Despite being water cooled, we found this pack ran hot.
Hello Everyone, I am new in automotive industry but very passion about EV. I am going to build Tesla powered Classic Car such as Chevy BelAir 1957. For now I just doing research and hope you could help me to finalize my idea and realize it sharing with me your expertise. I see, most of you convert cars with EV Kits. I suppose, the main reason is the cost.
Tesla Large Drive Unit, this is the "Sport" version with the performance inverter. This Drive Unit has been professionally rebuilt with new hybrid ceramic rotor and primary drive gear bearings. As you can see in the pictures, it is also equipped with the QC Charge rotor coolant delete manifold, and has the option of adding oil cooling for the rotor with a bit of extra hardware.
Brand New in Factory Packaging USA Inventory, No Shipping or Tariff Hassles Includes Gearbox, Cascadia iM225/SS250/iM375 Adapter Plate, Splined Shaft and Hardware. Designed for Longitudinal Drive Applications Common DIN 120 Output Drive Flange Technical Data Application: Electromobility commercial vehicles Transmission Ratio: 2.842 Reduction Input Speed Continuous: 10,000 RPM Input Speed Maximum: 13,000 RPM Input Torque Continuous: 350 Nm (258 lb-ft).
I didn't have enough unfinished EV projects, but, THIS one I thought, just needs batteries, so it's technically the shortest path to driving an EV. I'm not going to keep it original, but, there's not much I'm interested in modifying. Lead is dead, so new batteries. Otherwise, not sure. I'm not sure what this thread will be.
I've had 25K problem free miles with our 2017 Smart EV, but now the car will not charge. The dealer tells me the charging port is the problem, but that Mercedes/SMART have none of them and do not plan to make more. Do any of you have a charging port for our car? Are there salvage yards in Europe that might have a port?
I’ve always loved Karmann Ghias and they’ve always been near the top of my list for conversions. This donor was too good of a deal to pass up. The previous owner stripped it down to the chassis, did all of the restoration work, got it dipped and primed, and then got a divorce and had to sell it. Whole thing for $3000. Body is in pristine shape, comes with all new lights, window rubber, alloy wheels, wire harness and more.
Hi All, Here is my Stock EVC project - first, 'Stock EVC' means I'm ONLY replacing the ICE engine and ANYTHING that feeds it. So, all fuel, obviously, power steering pump, radiator (at least in size), etc., etc., etc. The line of demarcation is the bellhousing - from the bellhousing back through the power train (and forward from the transfer case to front diff) - all stock and NOT upgraded or touched.
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