Stuff We Use: What’s the Best Battery Booster Pack?

Matthew Guy
by Matthew Guy

On our never-ending quest to improve this place by listening to feedback from the B&B, we are taking a new tack with these product posts, choosing instead to focus on items we use and have purchased with our own meager income. After all, if we’re giving you the truth about cars, we ought to give you the truth about car accessories.

 

One of the reasons this site works well is thanks to the marked similarities of, erm, quirks our writers have in common with readers. Like so many of you, most of our properties house at least one vehicle which won’t start on the first try, to say nothing of the random boxes of junkyard detritus accumulated through years of vehicular mayhem. 


 

Busted hoopties often have dead batteries, making the modern booster pack something of a must-have around these parts. Sure, one could string out a set of jumper cables to a neighboring vehicle but that’s likely only going to result in a tangled web of wires that would kill all the Flying Wallendas. Besides, that other car probably has a dead battery, too.

 

Rapidly approaching his mid-forties, this author continues to use an older battery pack purchased about a decade ago – yet it is one that’s still available to buy new and provides plenty of teaching opportunities he’d like to pass on to the reader. This 20-pound honker is heavy as lead thanks to its acid-based battery composition but has never failed to spin the engine of everything from a John Deere lawn tractor to a Duramax-equipped Silverado. Rated at 1000 peak amps and 500 crank assist amps, this thing is still good for about three successful starting attempts before needing a recharge even after ten years of use.

 

If you take nothing else away from this post, it should be that old-school battery packs of this sort show up in two types: One that turns on via a dedicated on/off switch and one that rouses from its slumber by detecting a trickle of charge from the battery to which it is connected. The latter type was found to be absolutely useless, in my experience, since most of what I was boosting had batteries that were flatter than Kansas. Even if the pack was fully charged, it would not awaken to provide juice to the car in question.

 

TL;DR – if you’re investing in one of these styles of battery booster packs, make absolutely certain it has an on/off switch to activate the leads.

 

Of course, one needn’t lug around a heavy battery pack these days, not with the myriad of compact 12V jump starter units on the market. Many of these aren’t much bigger than a couple packs of smokes, leading this old guy to initially think they would not be capable of jump-starting a Little Tykes Cozy Coupe, let alone a Lincoln Town Car. I was utterly mistaken. Most of these things have enough gumption to light the fires on even large V8 engines at least once before needing a recharge, and their compact dimensions mean owners can easily stuff one in the glove box or spare tire well.

That latter point is of no small importance to parents whose youngsters have a whip in which they might find themselves (or a friend) stranded. Hell, I sure could have used one of these things in my own formative years instead of loitering in a flat parking lot and relying on the kindness of strangers to help get my beaten Ford Escort back on the road. I say flat because I quickly learned to park on a hill and pop its clutch to start the thing.

This booster from a company called Noco makes it into our post since I’ve used precisely the same unit in the not-too-distant past. The fact it is atop Amazon’s list of recommended products is probably why the person bought it in the first place. Nevertheless, it was dead simple to connect, belts out 1000A, and started an old V6-equipped Grand Am on the first go.

 

HOWEVER – and this is a big note – users must push the ‘polarity override’ button (the one with an exclamation point symbol) before connecting it to a battery if they suspect the battery is truly and completely dead. Remember the whole on/off switch debacle I mentioned earlier? Unless that override button is pushed, this Noco will not wake itself to boost a completely dead battery. The (!) button works as a true on/off switch, even if that is not its intended or advertised function. With that critical bit of information, which is mentioned in accompanying literature but not totally obvious, this is a great unit in most scenarios.


This booster pack from a brand called Scosche has also been used around our place to start items like wayward vehicles and a tractor. Despite looking (and sized) for all the world like a flashlight one would find in their household junk drawer, it has never failed to spin the starter on whatever vehicle to which it is attached. However, it is not clear if the thing would work with a totally dead battery like the other two units described above. Still, I am shocked by its capability in such a small package.

 

As planned, this series of posts will continue to focus on items we actually use and have bought with our own money. We hope you found this one helpful.


[Images: Manufacturer]

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Matthew Guy
Matthew Guy

Matthew buys, sells, fixes, & races cars. As a human index of auto & auction knowledge, he is fond of making money and offering loud opinions.

More by Matthew Guy

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  • SPPPP SPPPP on Sep 21, 2023

    The little boosters work way better than you would expect. I am a little nervous about carrying one more lithium battery around in the car (because of fire risk). But I have used the booster more than once on trips, and it has done the job. Also, it seems to hold charge for a very long time - months at least - when you don't use it. (I guess I could start packing it for trips, but leaving it out of the car on normal days, to minimize the fire risk.)

  • RHD RHD on Sep 21, 2023

    "Nevertheless, it was dead simple to connect, belts out 1000A..."


    Actually, a battery, or a booster pack, provides the current that is drawn. It doesn't force its maximum capacity into the starter motor. A 650 Cold Cranking Amp battery won't start a Ford Escort any better than a 325 CCA battery.

    "Belting out 1000A" would fry the components in the circuit in short order.

  • Bd2 Lexus is just a higher trim package Toyota. ^^
  • Tassos ONLY consider CIvics or Corollas, in their segment. NO DAMNED Hyundais, Kias, Nissans or esp Mitsus. Not even a Pretend-BMW Mazda. They may look cute but they SUCK.I always recommend Corollas to friends of mine who are not auto enthusiasts, even tho I never owed one, and owned a Civic Hatch 5 speed 1992 for 25 years. MANY follow my advice and are VERY happy. ALmost all are women.friends who believe they are auto enthusiasts would not listen to me anyway, and would never buy a Toyota. They are damned fools, on both counts.
  • Tassos since Oct 2016 I drive a 2007 E320 Bluetec and since April 2017 also a 2008 E320 Bluetec.Now I am in my summer palace deep in the Eurozone until end October and drive the 2008.Changing the considerable oils (10 quarts synthetic) twice cost me 80 and 70 euros. Same changes in the US on the 2007 cost me $219 at the dealers and $120 at Firestone.Changing the air filter cost 30 Euros, with labor, and there are two such filters (engine and cabin), and changing the fuel filter only 50 euros, while in the US they asked for... $400. You can safely bet I declined and told them what to do with their gold-plated filter. And when I changed it in Europe, I looked at the old one and it was clean as a whistle.A set of Continentals tires, installed etc, 300 EurosI can't remember anything else for the 2008. For the 2007, a brand new set of manual rec'd tires at Discount Tire with free rotations for life used up the $500 allowance the dealer gave me when I bought it (tires only had 5000 miles left on them then)So, as you can see, I spent less than even if I owned a Lexus instead, and probably less than all these poor devils here that brag about their alleged low cost Datsun-Mitsus and Hyundai-Kias.And that's THETRUTHABOUTCARS. My Cars,
  • NJRide These are the Q1 Luxury division salesAudi 44,226Acura 30,373BMW 84,475Genesis 14,777Mercedes 66,000Lexus 78,471Infiniti 13,904Volvo 30,000*Tesla (maybe not luxury but relevant): 125,000?Lincoln 24,894Cadillac 35,451So Cadillac is now stuck as a second-tier player with names like Volvo. Even German 3rd wheel Audi is outselling them. Where to gain sales?Surprisingly a decline of Tesla could boost Cadillac EVs. Tesla sort of is now in the old Buick-Mercury upper middle of the market. If lets say the market stays the same, but another 15-20% leave Tesla I could see some going for a Caddy EV or hybrid, but is the division ready to meet them?In terms of the mainstream luxury brands, Lexus is probably a better benchmark than BMW. Lexus is basically doing a modern interpretation of what Cadillac/upscale Olds/Buick used to completely dominate. But Lexus' only downfall is the lack of emotion, something Cadillac at least used to be good at. The Escalade still has far more styling and brand ID than most of Lexus. So match Lexus' quality but out-do them on comfort and styling. Yes a lot of Lexus buyers may be Toyota or import loyal but there are a lot who are former GM buyers who would "come home" for a better product.In fact, that by and large is the Big 3's problem. In the 80s and 90s they would try to win back "import intenders" and this at least slowed the market share erosion. I feel like around 2000 they gave this up and resorted to a ton of gimmicks before the bankruptcies. So they have dropped from 66% to 37% of the market in a quarter century. Sure they have scaled down their presence and for the last 14 years preserved profit. But in the largest, most prosperous market in the world they are not leading. I mean who would think the Koreans could take almost 10% of the market? But they did because they built and structured products people wanted. (I also think the excess reliance on overseas assembly by the Big 3 hurts them vs more import brands building in US). But the domestics should really be at 60% of their home market and the fact that they are not speaks volumes. Cadillac should not be losing 2-1 to Lexus and BMW.
  • Tassos Not my favorite Eldorados. Too much cowbell (fins), the gauges look poor for such an expensive car, the interior has too many shiny bits but does not scream "flagship luxury", and the white on red leather or whatever is rather loud for this car, while it might work in a Corvette. But do not despair, a couple more years and the exterior designs (at least) will sober up, the cowbells will be more discreet and the long, low and wide 60s designs are not far away. If only the interiors would be fit for the price point, and especially a few acres of real wood that also looked real.
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