Range Finder: Rivian Offers Smaller Battery on R1S and R1T

Matthew Guy
by Matthew Guy

Hitting the powertrain of its pickup truck and SUV with a shrink ray has permitted Rivian to offer a new battery option – and a new price point – for its pair of all-electric models.

A so-called Standard battery is in the pipe, packing 106 kWh of capacity and an estimated 270 miles of driving range on a full charge. There will also be a Standard+ configuration, with 121 kWh and 315 miles range. In comparison to other options on the order sheet, the Large battery is rated at about 350 miles of total driving distance while the mighty Max battery carries a 410-mile estimate from the EPA eggheads.


You may expect these new arrangements to be accompanied by a lower price – and you’d be right. The fresh Standard arrangement is just over nine grand less expensive than the Large, meaning customers can get into an R1T for $71,700 or an R1S for $76,700. This sum unlocks the Dual Motor powertrain, good for 533 horsepower. Right now, that’s the only way to get the Standard battery, though the Standard+ can be paired with the tastier 665 hp Dual Motor Performance model. 


For those keeping track, the Standard+ will be a $3,100 walk from the Standard; adding the Performance gubbins tacks on another five grand. Before destination fees, the R1T now slides under 70 large in Standard Dual Motor guise. And with numerous trims ducking under the $80,000 limbo bar, there could be some federal tax incentives in the offing. However, structure for EV rebates in America confuse this author to no end, so he will defer to our own Matt Posky, who is the resident expert on that topic.


These rigs are available to build and price on the Rivian website, suggesting they could be ordered and delivered before the snow melts.


[Images: Rivian]


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Matthew Guy
Matthew Guy

Matthew buys, sells, fixes, & races cars. As a human index of auto & auction knowledge, he is fond of making money and offering loud opinions.

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5 of 17 comments
  • Lou_BC Lou_BC on Feb 13, 2024

    I've read that the body design and integration means exceptionally expensive repair costs for minor damage.

    • See 2 previous
    • SCE to AUX SCE to AUX on Feb 14, 2024

      My first post here got wiped out, but there is a fellow on YouTube who was quoted $41k for a crushed lower rear corner of his R1T. Using PDR, it was fixed for much less.

      Thing is, it was nearly perfect, but not perfect. I suspect an authorized repair shop pretty much has to use new parts.

  • Calrson Fan Calrson Fan on Feb 13, 2024

    Still way too expensive for a PU or SUV with such limited capability and no resale value. Extra bonus is they are from a company that probably won't be around in 5 years due to their poor business model. I can think of so many better ways to foolishly spend $80K!

  • Jalop1991 Our MaintenanceCosts has been a smug know-it-all.
  • MaintenanceCosts If I were shopping in this segment it would be for one of two reasons, each of which would drive a specific answer.Door 1: I all of a sudden have both a megacommute and a big salary cut and need to absolutely minimize TCO. Answer: base Corolla Hybrid. (Although in this scenario the cheapest thing would probably be to keep our already-paid-for Bolt and somehow live with one car.)Door 2: I need to use my toy car to commute, because we move somewhere where I can't do it on the bike, and don't want to rely on an old BMW every morning or pay the ensuing maintenance costs™. Answer: Civic Si. (Although if this scenario really happened to me it would probably be an up-trimmed Civic Si, aka a base manual Acura Integra.)
  • El scotto Mobile homes are built using a great deal of industrial grade glues. As a former trailer-lord I know they can out gas for years. Mobile homes and leased Kias/Sentras may be responsible for some of the responses in here.
  • El scotto Bah to all the worrywarts. A perfect used car for a young lady living near the ocean. "Atlantic Avenue" and "twisty's" are rarely used in the same sentence. Better than the Jeep she really wants.
  • 3-On-The-Tree I’ll take a naturally aspirated car because turbos are potential maintenance headaches. Expensive to fix and extra wear, heat, pressure on the engine. Currently have a 2010 Corolla and it is easy to work on, just changed the alternator an it didn’t require any special tools an lots of room.
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